MATERIALS

Fabric has always been the most important element to consider when we design a collection. Fabric research is the foundation on which we build the entire design and production process for our garments.
The textiles we use change depending on the various types of garments to be made and are designed to offer the customer a hand feel and performance that complete the product design, but not only this: they come from our constant research into vintage garments from our archives and from collaborations with the most important knit manufacturers.

Accessories are also key: labels, buttons and zips are all part of the product manufacturing process and distinguish those tangible – and at times intangible – details that make every single piece special.

For us it is crucial that we tell you about our relationship with fabric.

WINTER FABRICS

COTTON/HEMP SERGE

This fabric comes from the study of the original “Serge de Nimes” which is the original texture of the so-called “denim”.

We have reinterpreted it by adding a large amount of pure hemp which is not only one of the most sustainable fibers in the world, but thanks to its “hollow” structure it has thermoregulatory properties that allow you to use this fabric all year round with maximum comfort.

Dyed in reactive yarn

This fabric is Made in Italy

SLUB MEDIUM WEIGHT CHAMBRAY

We have imagined, with our “vision” of modernity, a new concept of chambray that we call “chambray of the future”.

The most important aspect is the weight: we have chosen to use a medium weight that allows it to be used both as an over-shirt and as a shirt: the value of the product increases exponentially because you can use it all year round.

We made it using slub yarns with an exceptional amount of pure linen, which allows for maximum comfort in all seasons, it is very sustainable and with use it softens becoming very comfortable.

Dyed in reactive yarn

This fabric is made in Italy

WOOL/HEMP TWILL

A material that represents the pinnacle of research regarding the combination of fibers with thermoregulatory properties.

By combining wool and hemp we have created a material with an exceptional fluidity that allows you to create sustainable, functional and very comfortable products.

Designed to coexist perfectly with all the other fabrics in the collection, it is undoubtedly a top of the range.

Yarn dyed

This fabric is made in Italy

TELA ORGANICA CANAPA

Parte del progetto “Respect” del fornitore N°1 per i tessuti alto di gamma della camiceria Italiana.

Respect si propone di offrire tessuti che rispettano le normative GOTS e ZDHC che sono prodotti con il minor utilizzo di acqua, che permettono un utilizzo 365 giorni all’anno grazie alle fibre di cui sono composti, con l’ottica di rendere il tessuto il più usufruibile possibile.

Armatura tela, peso gr. 165/175 mtl.

Tinto in pezza

Composizione: 100% CANAPA

TWEED DI MAGLIA, HERRINGBONE DI MAGLIA, FLANELLA DI MAGLIA

Made by taking pure virgin wool yarn as the starting point, which is then processed to obtain a knit fabric that we designed for travellers and for anyone wanting to wear an exclusive product. This fabric features the exceptional heat insulating properties of the wool, combined with a knit that makes it ultra-light and thus exceptionally comfortable.
Weight: 370 g/m2.
It comes in tweed, herringbone and plain knits.

This fabric must be dry cleaned, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in Italy.

FELTED “BRUSHED SHETLAND”

Weighing 400 g/m2 and unmistakeably inspired by the Shetlands, this fabric has been designed to ensure it is soft to the touch, thereby preventing the itchy feel of rough wool.
By blending the wool with some polyester, we have been able to brush the surface of the fabric and make it extremely soft.

This means the fabric drapes more fluidly.

This fabric must be dry cleaned, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in Italy.

COTTON GLEN CHECK

This is designed to be a fabric for between seasons and work as a “layer” during the colder months of the year too.
The pure cotton composition has been peached to give it a warmer and softer hand and weighs approx. 235 g/m2, an early indicator of this being a “timeless” fabric.

This fabric can be washed in water, gentle cycle at low temperature, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in Italy.

8 WALES “PIMA” CORDUROY

This corduroy is a fabric that has been a hit with our clients right from when it was introduced.
It stands out from normal corduroys due to the way it has been woven, using extremely fine extra-long staple “pima” cotton that makes it extremely soft.
Weighing 315 g/m2, it is all-season suitable.
The garment wash gives it the look of old corduroy fabrics worn by Italian and French workers, complete with the uneven details, nuances and features that distinguish our archive pieces that provided the inspiration for this fabric.

This fabric can be washed in water, gentle cycle at low temperature, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in the EU.

“FLEECE” MOLESKIN

Also known as “Fustian”, it is distinguished by its approx. 300 g/m2 weight and is garment washed using an extremely delicate treatment to guarantee an exclusive level of softness that we call “fleece hand” because it becomes very soft, like fleece.
Compared to normal, and very heavy, moleskin fabrics, this interpretation creates a more modern version, yet guarantees the original “vintage” aesthetic of the piece.

This fabric can be washed in water, gentle cycle at low temperature, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in the EU.

DOUBLE SATEEN

A 470 g/m2 fabric created exclusively for the brand, this matte sateen with a military-derived structure features a “double” construction, i.e. it has the same face on both sides. Created as the evolution of the military “reversed” sateen, we have updated this material to make a compact and durable fabric with an extremely dense weave.

It is washed only in water and will take on an exceptional vintage look with time.

This fabric can be washed in water, gentle cycle at low temperature, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in Italy.

COTTON/NYLON MILITARY HBT

This fabric weighs approx. 250 g/m2 and was created by taking a military-derived fabric from our archive as the starting point.
It has been constructed with a herringbone weave to ensure it can be used as a transitional fabric and that it can adapt to different needs and seasons. Its technical composition also makes it extremely durable, yet light and comfortable.

This fabric can be washed in water, gentle cycle at low temperature, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in Italy.

PRINTED AND WOVEN LABELS

All the labels we use are made in Italy on shuttle looms. We use trilobal yarns that look like old sartorial labels, which have been carefully designed from those found in our archives, or we create irregular weaves that resemble the labels from the 50s/60s, which can be found on old work apparel.
Even our size and composition labels are made with these characteristics, unlike other companies that use cheap, low-quality labels.
All our labels are made in Italy.

BUTTONS

We only use buttons made from real horn, real corozo and real mother-of-pearl.
In the case of the brass “shank” buttons seen on our blazers, we work with the same company that supplies the Italian Navy and many international military corps.
All our buttons are made in Italy.

ZIPS

We work with brass zips with the “zip-pull” cut directly from the metal sheet, which come from our research into and respect for military equivalents found on the garments in our archive. The tape is made only from the best quality cotton.
All our zips are made in Italy.

SUMMER FABRICS

REPS SLUB (TESSUTO ESCLUSIVO)

Tessuto escluso realizzato per 1ST PAT-RN partendo da un vecchio capo militare presente nel nostro archivio, identificato come “trench tela sacco”.
Si contraddistingue per una mano molto fluida ed un aspetto “rugged” grazie alla struttura del lino che crea una texture molto particolare

Tinto in pezza

Armatura reps, con peso di gr. 480 mtl.

Composizione: 45% COTONE, 39% VISCOSA, 16% LINO

GALLES IN COTONE/NYLON

Tessuto in cotone/nylon che riprende disegnature Galles modernizzate nelle proporzioni che si prestano perfettamente alla composizione dell’abito intero, ma sono pensate anche per amalgamarsi con gli uniti della nostra collezione, permettendo un utilizzo molto ampio.

Armatura saia, con peso di gr. 240 mtl.

Tinto in filo

Composizione: 60% COTONE, 40% NYLON

NYLON MANO CARTA

Prodotto da MAJOTECH fornitore di amministrazioni militari e dei più importanti brand del mondo.

Tessuto su base tela, partendo dal nylon ripstop utilizzato per applicazioni militari, in questo caso i paracaduti, e quindi con recupero di tessuto autentico che altresì resterebbe inutilizzato.
L’innovazione viene dal trattamento che valorizza il materiale: una resinatura mano carta “croccante” che ne determina anche il colore.
Questo tessuto ha un “sound” molto particolare che viene letteralmente creato attraverso il grado di resinatura scelto: noi abbiamo deciso di creare un sound molto particolare proprio come quello della carta

Prodotto in limited edition e in esclusiva

Armatura tela, con peso di gr. 65 mq

100% PA + resine

DOUBLE TWISTED TRICOTINE

Double twisted tricotine is distinguished by its slightly textured, diagonal rib.
Based on the very dense twill weave, it confers distinctive performance in terms of compactness and we often find it used in military garments with good durability and outstanding breathability.
In our case, this fabric has been redefined with a modern twist starting from a 60s field jacket, with a European military background, which is currently held in our archives.
This fabric is made in Italy.

“TECHNICAL” NYLON/PIMA COTTON POPLIN

This fabric represents the fusion between extra-long staple “pima” cotton – one of the finest in the world – with a very fine technical nylon. While the pima cotton makes the fabric soft, fine and cool, the nylon guarantees incredible comfort thanks to its quick-dry properties and elevated breathability, yet also modernises a fabric that was created from research into first-generation military poplin, giving it an extremely sophisticated hand.
This fabric is made in Japan.

KNIT CAVALRY

Designed as always with the aim of achieving the kinds of textiles that are somewhere between a knit and woven fabric, we have developed this diagonal rib fabric that offers exceptional comfort.
Made in limited quantities, it is perfect for wearing during the summer, as, although very compact, its structure provides outstanding breathability.
This fabric is made in Italy.

“YARN DYED” SELVEDGE CHINO CLOTH

Exceptional yarn-dyed “selvedge” twill with various thread counts which create an effect on the fabric surface that is inspired by old military chinos. This is an extremely unique fabric due to its sophistication.

Weighing approx. 370 g/m2, this exceptional fabric becomes more beautiful with every wash.

This fabric can be washed in water, gentle cycle at low temperature, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label

This fabric is made in Japan.

DOUBLE INDIGO “SELVEDGE” (LEFT HAND TWILL OR BROKEN TWILL)

This fabric that weighs approx. 305 g/m2 has been inspired by the colour of Italian work uniforms. Made with two different shades of indigo in the warp and weft, it becomes more even after the first few washes, taking on a real “workwear” aesthetic in terms of the shades of colour.
Woven on old looms from the 1960s, the LEFT HAND or BROKEN TWILL weave still features an exposed selvedge.

Like all indigo fabrics, this fabric can become very discolored, it can stain if it is in contact with light colors, it can be washed in water, preferably by hand, or a delicate cycle at a low temperature always upside down, always follow the washing instructions on the maintenance label
Do not rub the fabric to remove stains.
If you want to keep the original color wash the garment as little as possible.

This fabric is made in Italy.